Y Wisg Gymreig

Oes ffasiwn beth â gwisg genedlaethol Gymreig?

Mae'r ddelwedd boblogaidd o'r wisg 'genedlaethol' Gymreig, sef gwraig mewn clogyn coch a het ddu uchel, yn deillio o wahanol ddylanwadau'r bedwaredd ganrif ar bymtheg. Rhan ydoedd o ymgais i roi hwb i ddiwylliant Cymreig mewn cyfnod pan oedd gwerthoedd traddodiadol o dan fygythiad.

O ble ddaeth y steil 'genedlaethol' Gymreig?

Mae'r wisg sy'n cael ei hystyried yn wisg genedlaethol wedi'i seilio ar y dillad a wisgid gan wragedd cefn gwlad Cymru yn ystod y bedwaredd ganrif ar bymtheg, sef pais wlanen resog a wisgid o dan goban neu wn agored, gyda ffedog, siôl a hances neu gap. Roedd steil y gwn yn amrywio - gellid cael gwn llac fel côt, gwn gyda bodis wedi'i ffitio a sgert hir a hefyd gwn byr, a oedd yn debyg iawn i wisg farchogaeth.

Y Wisg Gymreig

Oedd menywod yn gwisgo hetiau tal, du, go iawn?

Roedd yr hetiau a wisgid yn gyffredinol yn y cyfnod hwn yr un fath â hetiau'r dynion. Nid ymddangosodd yr het uchel math 'simnai' tan ddiwedd y 1840au ac ymddengys iddi gael ei seilio ar gyfuniad o'r hetiau uchel a wisgid gan ddynion, sef y 'top hat' a math o het uchel a wisgid mewn ardaloedd cefn gwlad yn ystod y cyfnod 1790-1820.

Pwy oedd yn gyfrifol am boblogeiddio'r ffasiwn?

Bu Augusta Hall, gwraig i un o feistri haearn Gwent ac Arglwyddes Llanofer, yn frwd dros wisg 'genedlaethol' a byddai'n annog pobl i'w gwisgo yn ei chartref ac mewn eisteddfodau. Credai ei bod yn bwysig annog pobl i ddefnyddio'r iaith Gymraeg ac i wisgo dillad nodweddiadol Gymreig. Llwyddodd yn hyn o beth, a hynny'n bennaf oherwydd fod pobl yn teimlo bod eu hunaniaeth genedlaethol o dan fygythiad. Roedd gwisgo gwisg genedlaethol yn un ffordd o hyrwyddo'r hunaniaeth honno.

Dylanwad pellach oedd gwaith yr arlunwyr a gynhyrchai brintiau i'r fasnach ymwelwyr a oedd yn prysur dyfu, ac a arweiniodd at boblogeiddio'r syniad o wisg Gymreig draddodiadol, ac yn ddiweddarach waith y ffotograffwyr a gynhyrchai filoedd o gardiau post. Arweiniodd hyn at greu un math o wisg ystrydebol, yn hytrach na'r steiliau amrywiol a geid yn gynharach yn y ganrif.

Siolau

O ble ddaeth y patrymau sydd ar 'siol Gymreig'?

Rhwng 1840 a 1870 y siôl oedd y gyfwisg fwyaf ffasiynol. Y sioliau mwyaf poblogaidd oedd y sioliau Paisley, y daeth y patrwm gwreiddiol ar eu cyfer o Kashmir yn India.

Y sioliau mwyaf cyffredin ar y cychwyn oedd sioliau plaen ag ymyl patrymog wedi'i gysylltu wrthynt. Yn ddiweddarch, cafodd llawer math o sioliau cain gyda phatrymau ar yr ymyl neu dros y cyfan eu gwehyddu yn Norfolk, yr Alban a Pharis. Erbyn canol y ganrif ceid sioliau mawr iawn i gyd fynd â sgertiau llawn y cyfnod. Câi sioliau eu gwneud mewn ffabrigau a phatrymau eraill, gan gynnwys sidan Canton a les cain a wnaed â pheiriant, er mai'r patrwm Paisley a sioliau gwlân cartref gyda phatrymau sgwarog a ddaeth yn boblogaidd yng Nghymru.

Oedd menywod Cymreig yn gisgo siôl?

Yn ddiweddarach, er nad oedd gwragedd ffasiynol bellach yn gwisgo sioliau, byddai gwragedd cefn gwlad a gweithwragedd y trefi'n dal i wneud a gwisgo sioliau llai o faint. Erbyn y 1870au cynhyrchid sioliau rhatach drwy brintio'r patrymau ar wlanoedd main neu gotwm. Roedd sioliau gwlân, gwau a Paisley'n gyffredin yn ardaloedd cefn gwlad Cymru hyd yn oed ar ddechrau'r ugeinfed ganrif. Cafodd y siôl Paisley ei derbyn yn rhan o'r wisg 'Gymreig', er nad oes dim yn draddodiadol Gymreig yn ei chylch.

A ddefnyddiwyd y siol Gymreig i gario babi?

Un traddodiad sy'n wirioneddol Gymreig yw'r arfer o gario babanod mewn siôl. Ceir darluniau yn portreadu hyn o ddiwedd y ddeunawfed ganrif pan arferai gwragedd Cymru wisgo darn syml o ddefnydd wedi'i glymu am eu cyrff. Pan ddaeth sioliau'n boblogaidd gwnaed yr un defnydd ohonynt ac mae rhai gwragedd hyd heddiw yn dal i lynu at y traddodiad hwn.

Darganfod mwy am Hanes Menywod Cymru.

sylw(18)

Mrs J A Taylor-Woods
23 Mehefin 2020, 00:35
Hi to SIAN WILCOX and NINA in NORWAY, Not sure if I can help in some way: I live near Lampeter, about 15 miles from the woollen mill at Drefach Felindre. I am a designer, dressmaker, spinner (wool) and various other things. Would I be able to help you achieve your ambition! re: fabrics, costume, etc? I make all sorts of things, bridesmaids, wedding clothes, skirts, suits, coats, etc?

I found your comments purely by chance. Not sure how you can get in touch, maybe with the email address? or try phoning me 01570 218391

Regards JTW
Steve
18 Ebrill 2020, 18:37
I am trying to remember the name of the man who unsuccessfully tried to start a traditional men's costume in response to the women's costume. I have a vague recollection of a sepia-toned photograph in which he wore a top (a shirt or jacket of some kind) that had a plaid pattern like a kilt/cilt. I've been scouring the internet, but to no avail.
If anyone could help point me in the right direction, I would be very grateful!
Diolch!
John Wake
3 Ebrill 2020, 13:12
I introduced Welsh Tartans and Kilts into the country in the early 1990s. I started the Welsh Tartan Centre, using plaids made near Builth Wells. Tradition has to start somewhere. We also introduced the St David's Flag at that time time to brand the regalia as separate from the Scots, Irish, Cornish etc. We could not get permission to use the cinquefoils on the flag so just used the basic black cross on yellow background. It had to be marketed as no-one seemed to know it, not even the most ardent Welsh person. Now it flies everywhere. Whether you agree with the concept of the introduction of the Brithwe Dewi Sant etc., I hope it has bought pleasure to many.
Siân Wilcox
2 Mawrth 2020, 07:31
A response to Nina in Norway - I live in New Zealand but also have Welsh heritage - my mother made me a proper Welsh costume ( definitely not like the Amazon ones) when I was 4 - fortunately I am a sewer so I’m now in the process of making 2 more bigger ones for my granddaughters who have outgrown my one. I was in Wales last year & bought genuine Welsh flannel from a Mill still in operation in Drefach Felindre in mid - Wales - sadly in the year since I bought it the girls have got taller & I find I now don’t have enough fabric - I found dealing with the Mill online was very difficult so I’m now exploring other options - if you happened to be in Wales maybe you could find someone there who could make up the fabric
Nina
8 Mai 2019, 19:45
Hi. I have spent two days now trying to find a seamstress who specializes in the Welsh national costume. I was born in Wales, but moved to Norway with my family as a young girl. In Norway the national dress is called a "bunad", and is normally handed down through generations. Otherwise it is purchased in the county you are born and raised. As I don't really feel "home" anywhere in Norway, the idea of sewing my own Welsh national dress has sprung to mind. But I can't sew, I don't have welsh wool available, and I don't know where to start.

I did look at the generic costume one can buy from amazon, but I've seen way more beautiful costumes than that one, which is why I wonder where on earth I would be able to either purchase one, or find someone who would be happy to make one for me. In Norway we have a registry of all seamstresses who specialize in the "bunad", but I couldn't find anything like that of the Welsh dress. Did I not look hard enough?

If you could point me in the right direction, I would be happy to follow!

Kind regards from Nina.
john faragher
18 Ionawr 2018, 02:04
I am q Manxman with a welsh gran and a Manx nana, I used to get a cudge from nana and a cwtch and bach from gran. double pleasure, but never liked grans moustache


Marc Haynes Staff Amgueddfa Cymru
29 Tachwedd 2017, 10:12
Hi Andy, thank you for your enquiry. Here is a reply from our textiles curator:

Yes, you’re correct. Although many websites and shops sell ‘Welsh’ tartan, it’s a relatively new ‘invented’ tradition. The collection at St Fagans includes one kilt – made in Scotland in 1967 from cloth registered as ‘the national Welsh tartan’ by a Welshman called Don Richards. A copy of the kilt was presented to Prince Charles. In Wales, we do not have an equivalent registration system for our traditional woven cloths, and Welsh mills tended to produce striped cloths, rather than plaid checks.
Andy
26 Tachwedd 2017, 11:11
Hi, is Welsh tartan a fairly new concept? How far does it go back in history?
Sara Huws Staff Amgueddfa Cymru
28 Mehefin 2017, 13:28

Hi there Pauleta,

Thank you for your comment. I'm glad to hear that you are of Welsh descent. We have a very rich culture, language and history, and I am sure you will have a great time exploring it. We have a lot of articles here on the website about a wide variety of Welsh topics and I hope you enjoy reading them.

If you ever come to visit Wales, do come and visit one (or all) our seven national museums - we look forward to welcoming you!

Cofion cynnes, best wishes,


Sara
Digital Team

Pauleta J Whiteis Clawson
27 Mehefin 2017, 15:43
We have researched our ancestry and discovered that we are mainly from Wales on my father's paternal side. Our original family came from Wales in 1801 with husband, wife, two sons and another son born on board ship. I'm searching for as much information as possible; music (I play piano, organ, flute, dobro), language, dress, quilts, etc. Thank you for this post.

Gadael sylw