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Wales and Mount Everest

Jeannette Rose Marxen, 1 Mai 2016

The Treasures: Adventures in Archaeology exhibition not only highlights the objects recovered from excavations but the process and adventure that many archaeologists went on while making these discoveries.  These archaeological adventures also coincide with the Visit Wales Year of Adventure.  In looking at the wider world of adventure, there are few things more adventurous than climbing Mount Everest.  And while it might seem that Mount Everest is a world away from Wales, the connections between the two reach lofty heights.

The first of those connections begins with the name.  Mount Everest was named after George Everest.  Born in Crickhowell, Powys in 1790 he trained as an engineer and spent most of his career working in India on a detailed survey of the entire subcontinent.  He served as Surveyor General of India and it was his successor, in 1857, who suggested the mountain be named after him.  Everest disagreed with this honour, he believed when naming geographical sites it was best to use local names.  However, since there were several local names for the mountain, the name Everest remained.  
    

There is another name connection between Mount Everest and Wales.  After the Great Trigonometrical Survey gave an official height to the mountain for the first time in 1856, it became something to conquer.  In 1921, Britain organised their first reconnaissance team whose job it was to map the various features and possible routes for future climbers.  George Mallory was a member of this team and while surveying, he came across a glacial valley and named it the Western Cwm.  For anyone who knows their Welsh, cwm means valley.  It is said that Mallory visited Snowdonia many times to climb and the name may reflect that.    
     

Training is key to any expedition, especially something as extreme as climbing Mount Everest.  The 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition began their training in 1952 and chose Snowdonia as their base.  While it might pale in comparison in height, Snowdon offered the climbers many opportunities to train on treacherous rock face and unstable scree.  Their headquarters was based at the Pen-y-Gwryd Inn, between Llanberis and Capel Curig.  You can still stay there and the walls are lined with mementos from the team’s time in residence.   

There were also two Welsh members of the 1953 Expedition.  In fact, it was almost a Welshman who reached the summit first.  Charles Evans was a teacher from North Wales and was the deputy expedition leader.  Evans and Tom Bourdillon were the first team to make an attempt on the summit on 26 of May.  They were a mere 100 meters from making history when they decided to turn back to camp because they were running low on oxygen.  While it is possible to climb Mount Everest without oxygen it undoubtably makes it more difficult and dangerous.  The 1953 Expedition knew the value of using oxygen properly and part of that was thanks to Griffith Pugh.  As a qualified doctor, Pugh was able to combine his medical knowledge and interest in Alpine sports by studying the effects of altitude on the body.  He was the physiologist of the expedition and his main duty was ensuring there was enough oxygen and that the other members acclimated to the altitude safely.  

On the 23rd of May 1995, Caradog Jones, from Tregaron, Ceredigion, became the first Welshman to reach the summit of Mount Everest.  Twelve years and one day later, Tori James, from Pembrokeshire, became the first Welsh woman to accomplish the feat. 

sylw (6)

Nid yw sylwadau ar gael ar hyn o bryd. Ymddiheuriadau am yr anghyfleustra.
Rosalind Causey
29 Ebrill 2018, 12:49
I carried a small piece of old red sandstone from the top of pen y fan and placed it on a cairn at Everest base camp, Nepal side... and in return , took a piece of granite from amount Everest back to Wales
Sara Staff Amgueddfa Cymru
17 Ebrill 2018, 12:05

Hi there Vicky

Our curator has had a good look in our sporting archive - unfortunately, she was unable to find information about this topic. I'm sorry that we couldn't help with your enquiry and wish you all the best in your work to secure the record.

Best wishes

Sara
Digital Team

Sara Huws Staff Amgueddfa Cymru
10 Ebrill 2018, 16:26

Hi there Vicky

Thank you for your comment and congratulations to your son on his amazing achievement!

I'm not sure how to direct your enquiry - I will start with the curator responsible for our sports collection, and get back to you.

Best wishes

Sara
Digital Team

Vicky Smith
9 Ebrill 2018, 10:05
Hi, I see from your blog on Everest that Tori James is the youngest Welsh Woman to climb Everest, do you happen to know who is the youngest Welshman to Climb Eversest?
My son summited last year at the age of 25 and I am interested to know if he would be the youngest Welsh Male but I cannot seem to find any information on this.
Thank you
Vicky Smith
Sara Huws Staff Amgueddfa Cymru
4 Mai 2016, 09:28

Thank you for your comment and information - glad you enjoyed the blog post. I know the author is away from the office for a few weeks, so I will be sure to pass on your comment.

All the best

Sara
Digital Team

3 Mai 2016, 22:59
Thanks for an insightful post, Jeanette. And still on the subject of connections between Wales and the Himalayas, let us not forget Kangchenjunga, (8586 m) third highest mountain in the world! It was climbed in May 1955 by a British team led by native Welsh-speaker Sir Charles Evans, who in 1957 became Principal of UCNW, Bangor, and later Vice-Chancellor of the University of Wales (1965-67). The first climber to reach the near summit (the actual summit was left un-trodden) was Joe Brown, who lives and still climbs in Llanberis. Edward Lear’s monumental painting Kinchinjunga from Darjeeling (1877) which now adorns the walls of the National Museum and Galleries of Wales was commissioned by Lord Aberdare (1st Baron of Aberdare) who served as President of the University College of Wales, Aberystwyth (1874-1895). Lord Aberdare gave Lear’s magnificent painting to the people of Mountain Ash and for many years it hung in the stairwell of Aberdare Central Library before being rescued for the nation by NMW.