Casgliadau Arlein

Dove grey breeches with spangled trim, about 1770. With matching waistcoat (F2019.21.1). Worn by Sir Watkin Williams-Wynn, 4th Baronet.

Made from tabby woven grey silk. Fall front style, with flap covering the centre front closure of three self-fabric covered buttons The front is constructed from two main sections but additional fabric has been added along the top to allow for the pockets and the material underneath the flap. The back is constructed from two main sections which are gathered into a wide waist band (which is cut from four pieces of fabric). There are also two small additional sections at either side of the upper centre back. The lining is constructed in a similar, though not identical way. There is a 12.5cm slit at the centre back which is drawn together with a strap and five-prong steel buckle which is stitched in place with a tab of pale blue silk. There is a c. 22cm long slit at the lower outer leg which is fastened with five ornate buttons. The lower hem of the breeches is trimmed with an ornate silver spangled braid which is fastened with a small self-fabric button. The braid consists of gold and silver coloured spangles, gold and silver purl and green and gold metallic foil (?). The loose ends of the braid have been reinforced with a layer of linen lining. Selvages: the outer grey silk has a selvage of four narrow red stripes (each made from six red warps).

Buttons: the topmost button differs from the four lower ones: it is mother-of-pearl effect glass (?), set in a circular perforated brass fitting; the other buttons have a base of pink metallic foil (?), then areas covered with a layer of thin metal with a surface texture of small indentations and other areas covered with what appears to be paper covered with leaf metal with a corrugated surface texture. The buttons are then embroidered with gold coloured metal purl. In the centre, there is a triangular arrangement of three dome-shaped white metal ornaments and three cut-glass gems (clear).

Pockets: there are two narrow pockets on either side of the centre front (underneath the flap) and two larger pockets which extend from underneath either side of the flap (outer edges of this second pair of pockets are fastened with a small self-fabric covered button). There is a third pair of pockets in the side seam. These were fastened with one button but this is now missing. Instead, the side pockets are now stitched shut at the point of where the button used to be.

Lining: the breeches have a white tabby woven linen lining. The strap that feeds into the buckle at centre back has a white twill cotton (?) lining. The facing underneath the button holes at the outer legs is made from the same material. The lining of each pocket is hidden in-between the outer silk and the linen lining. The lining of the small pockets and the ones at the side seam is made from the same fabric as the overall lining of the breeches, whereas the weave of the remaining pocket pair is finer and could possibly be cotton rather than linen.