Casgliadau Arlein

Short-sleeved, woollen betgwn [bedgown] of small check pattern in red, black and white. Worn by Susanna Berrington Gruffydd Richards of Ty'r Eglwys, Llanofer [Llanover]. She was a harpist to Lady Llanofer, after her father Thomas Gruffydd.

Bodice is constructed from six pieces of fabric plus two more for each sleeve.It is lined with white tabby-woven cotton. The seam allowances at the centre back seam are opened out and each edge is finished with overcast stitching (proper right side = selvage). For the other seams, the seam allowances are folded towards the front and stitched together with overcast stitches. On the bodice there are two vertical darts on each side to accommodate the bust which are folded to the sides. Five hook and eye fastenings of black-lacquered steel down centre front opening of bodice. Wool fabric is turned in by 3cm along the centre front (both sides = selvages) and stitch-secured against the lining. Bottom edge of bodice is encapsulated by a strip of the check woollen fabric which covers 3.3cm on the outside as well as the inside. On the outside, the upper edge of this strip is trimmed with piping using twill tape of red wool (width = 1.7cm). Same tape is used to trim neck opening. A short section of black silk ribbon (width = 3.8cm) has been stitched to either side of the lower centre front opening of the bodice (length of 18cm on right, 15cm on left). A long 1.7cm wide tabby-woven cotton tape is attached to the inside of the lower centre back of the bodice. In spite of it being tied up into a loop it nevertheless extends to 71cm. The tape is brown but has probably faded from black.

Ends of sleeves are turned up by 10cm plus a small turn-back of 2cm (= selvage). The turned-up edges are trimmed with twill tape of red wool (same as above). C. 4.5cm up from the sleeve cuffs, there is a small tuck to accommodate the curve of the elbow. Cuffs of sleeve are lined with c. 3.5-4cm wide strips of black tabby woven silk.

The open skirt section is made from three lengths of fabric which are joined together with two vertical seams along the selvage edges. The two outer sections also have selvages along the other, open edge (the full width of the woven fabric is 54cm). The skirt is gathered at the top and stitched to the bodice with a c. 7cm wide turn-back. The bottom hem has a 2cm wide double turnback, stitch-secured with small overcast stitches which are invisible from the front. A 11.8cm long section at the lower outer corners of the skirt are folded back (inward) at right angles and are stitch secured.

Five short sections of cotton tape (same as the one secured to lower centre back of bodice) are stitched to the inner hem of the skirt. They are c. 16-18cm apart and each 5.5-6cm long. The ends of each section are turned in and are stitched in place. Signs of wear of these sections of tape show them having been pulled downwards but it is not clear how they would have been used.

Large tacking stitches run alongside many of the seams. These were probably sewn initially to join the pieces together before the proper seams were sewn and are still left from when the garment was first made.